SOUTH PACIFIC CRUISE: FANNING ISLAND

So who has ever heard of Fanning Island?  No one we talked to on the cruise ship ever had. Discovered by and named for American sea captain Edmund Fanning in 1798 this coral atoll had no native population and remained uninhabited until about 1855.  Renamed Tabuaeran or "heavenly footprint," the atoll, like its sister Line Islands, is characterized by its ring shape and interior lagoon.  The highest place on the atoll is 3 feet above sea level!  Made me wonder about tsunamis....





Three lovely sea days south and west of Hawaii we arrived at Fanning Island, just 3 degrees north of the equator.  We crossed the International Dateline 3 times; on board ship it was Saturday but on shore it was Sunday!

I was out on the Promenade Deck for an early morning walk, watching our approach, and sighted a pair of dolphins which had come out to greet our ship.  That may sound anthropomorphic but what else could I conclude?  They came from the mouth of the lagoon toward the starboard side of our ship, hung around for a moment of two, arcing out of the water, then went back to the lagoon.  I think they were just curious.  Regrettably I did not get a photo of them.

Fanning is one of 32 coral atolls belonging to the Republic of Kiribati, reputed to be the poorest country in the world.  This was certainly evident as there is no electricity or indoor plumbing.  The only local foods are coconuts, pigs and seafood. I have no idea how or where they get their drinking water.

First view of the village

Catholic Church and Seaweed Plantation

There is no harbor at Fanning and our ship couldn't anchor because it is too deep, so the whole time we were there the ship idled in place while these tenders ferried us back and forth to the shore, about a 20 minute trip in rough water.

Tender being lowered

Very few ships come to Fanning so the arrival of ours was a big deal with craft vendors out in full force (on folding tables in the grass).  We were greeted by musicians, dancers and these guys posing for photos.  Any donations went to support their school.  Their costumes were made of burlap and couldn't have been comfortable in that stifling heat and humidity. 

Posing for $1 

Unfortunately these lovely dancers were doing their moves to horrible disco-type western music blaring from loudspeakers (and with no electricity, who knows, were the speakers hooked up to car batteries?)

This is what the village and housing looked like.   I felt like I dropped into a Margaret Mead story.

 Given that the locals have nothing except the sea and coconuts, I was incredibly impressed by the creative use of shark bones and fish vertebrae, not to mention the recycling of boxes from Costco!  Each box was very carefully re-sized to fit its knife and then SEWN back together with fishing line.  I wanted to get a photo of the artist but these Gilbertese folks are very shy.

Shark bone and fish vertebrae knives

Craft tables and entertainers

One of the few "industries" on Fanning is the selling of postage stamps.  We were told to expect a 4-6 month delivery time. 

Post Office

 One of their other industries is the packaging and selling of seaweed.  Back in the day (1902) Fanning was a happening place with commerce and electricity.  This was due to the laying of the Trans-Pacific cable between Canada and Australia. The cable station was destroyed in WWI.

Really, the only sensible thing to do in a climate like this is get into the water.  The coral made the beach really beautiful white and of course the water was a very pleasant temperature.

The lagoon

Dead coral on beach

It was so interesting coming to a place which has so little material wealth and so much beauty.  As a first world person it is impossible not to wonder, "could I survive here" with only pigs, dogs, flies, seafood and coconuts and 2,000 of my closest relatives?

Girl at water's edge

Next, Bora Bora.

Audrey