We realized we still hadn't gone to the restaurant where Rick Steves had amazing duck ravioli (seen in his show on Verona, Padua and Ravenna). When I looked up the location I found it was a mere few blocks from us, near the (Roman) Arena. We set out at about 1:15 and saw the outdoor tables of Enoteca Cangrande at the curve in the tiny Via Dietro Listone. There was an accordian playing and most of the tables were reserved - the first we had seen in Verona. No worries; we were shown to a table inside, being greeted by everyone on the way in. We were seated at the only table for 4, in a tiny dining room.
When it came time to think about wine we asked for help, as the wine list was overwhelming. Verona is the Sonoma/Napa wine region of Italy and all the wine is excellent. The waiter said, "I get my boss." The boss came and asked what we would be eating and then recommended this wine.
Later he told us this wine is from a little vineyard just outside Valpolicella, so it can't have that designation. It was so good. Soon after we had "a gift from the kitchen" which was parmesan cheese aged 30 months, served with balsamic vinegar and honey. Stunningly good.
Notice how the wine cork was presented.
Meantime, we noticed there was no duck ravioli on the menu. When we asked about it we were told it is a winter time dish. Never mind, we found amazing things to eat. Chuck ordered stuffed zucchini blossoms. They were every bit as delicious as they look.
Nancy ordered a pesto pasta that she really liked, Jim ordered polpo, or octopus with potatoes.
I was torn between porcini mushroom pasta and pumpkin and almond ravioli and asked for advice. I was told the pumpkin and almond ravioli was from a 15th century recipe and was a little sweet. That's what I chose. Oh my.
Those dark orange curls on top were lemon peel. I don't know how they were prepared. They were a little leathery, not bitter, and a perfect foil for the slightly sweet pasta which was absolutely delicious. One of the best things I have ever eaten.
By this time "the boss" had been back several times to check on us and had informed us that we were sitting at the same table Rick Steves had sat at. It must be because we asked about the duck ravioli.
Of course we had to order dessert. Jim and I split a plate with cassata and cannolo.
Cassata and cannoli are sweets from Sicily. Cassata is typically a sponge cake with liqueur and layered with ricotta cheese with a top shell of marzipan and some fruit. The ricotta filling is the same as used in the cannoli. There were dots of passion fruit on the plate. Chuck and Nancy split an equally amazing passion fruit panna cotta and of course the espresso was wonderful.
By the time we rolled out of this amazing restaurant it was after 3:30 and the restaurant was closed for the afternoon.
"The boss" agreed to pose with Jim.
I can't understand why this incredible rsstaurant does not have Michelin star. Perhaps it is too small? Perhaps it just hasn't been found yet? In any case, it deserves one on all counts - impeccable service and outstanding food. Thank you, Rick Steves! This made our final day in Verona truly memorable.
