No Michelin Star

Chuck, Nancy, Jim and I had been in Verona Italy for 2 weeks, settled into our apartment, the newness worn off, when it was suddenly our last day.

We realized we still hadn't gone to the restaurant where Rick Steves had amazing duck ravioli (seen in his show on Verona, Padua and Ravenna).  When I looked up the location I found it was a mere few blocks from us, near the (Roman) Arena. We set out at about 1:15 and saw the outdoor tables of Enoteca Cangrande at the curve in the tiny Via Dietro Listone.  There was an accordian playing and most of the tables were reserved - the first we had seen in Verona.  No worries; we were shown to a table inside, being greeted by everyone on the way in.  We were seated at the only table for 4, in a tiny dining room.

Our table setting was elegant and soon, after delivering our menus, the waiter came with a lovely plate of 3 types of bread and explained that the olive oil was a special blend 4 different olives, as he poured it onto our bread plates with a flourish.  It was outstanding.

When it came time to think about wine we asked for help, as the wine list was overwhelming.  Verona is the Sonoma/Napa wine region of Italy and all the wine is excellent.  The waiter said, "I get my boss."  The boss came and asked what we would be eating and then recommended this wine.

Later he told us this wine is from a little vineyard just outside Valpolicella, so it can't have that designation.  It was so good.  Soon after we had "a gift from the kitchen" which was parmesan cheese aged 30 months, served with balsamic vinegar and honey.  Stunningly good.

Notice how the wine cork was presented.

Meantime, we noticed there was no duck ravioli on the menu.  When we asked about it we were told it is a winter time dish.  Never mind, we found amazing things to eat.  Chuck ordered stuffed zucchini blossoms. They were every bit as delicious as they look.

Nancy ordered a pesto pasta that she really liked, Jim ordered polpo, or octopus with potatoes.

I was torn between porcini mushroom pasta and pumpkin and almond ravioli and asked for advice.  I was told the pumpkin and almond ravioli was from a 15th century recipe and was a little sweet.  That's what I chose.  Oh my.

Those dark orange curls on top were lemon peel.  I don't know how they were prepared.  They were a little leathery, not bitter, and a perfect foil for the slightly sweet pasta which was absolutely delicious.  One of the best things I have ever eaten.

By this time "the boss" had been back several times to check on us and had informed us that we were sitting at the same table Rick Steves had sat at.  It must be because we asked about the duck ravioli.  

Of course we had to order dessert.  Jim and I split a plate with cassata and cannolo.

Cassata and cannoli are sweets from Sicily.  Cassata is typically a sponge cake with liqueur and layered with ricotta cheese with a top shell of marzipan and some fruit.  The ricotta filling is the same as used in the cannoli.  There were dots of passion fruit on the plate.  Chuck and Nancy split an equally amazing passion fruit panna cotta and of course the espresso was wonderful.

By the time we rolled out of this amazing restaurant it was after 3:30 and the restaurant was closed for the afternoon.

"The boss" agreed to pose with Jim.

I can't understand why this incredible rsstaurant does not have Michelin star.  Perhaps it is too small?  Perhaps it just hasn't been found yet?  In any case, it deserves one on all counts - impeccable service and outstanding food.  Thank you, Rick Steves!  This made our final day in Verona truly memorable.

SAMPLING LOCAL FARE

On our city bus tour we got off at The Retiro, which is a huge park that used to be the playground of royalty and is now open to all Madrilenos.


It’s a great place to walk around or just people watch. We stopped at a little outdoor café (frankly, this is a major past time in Madrid) for a sit-down and a refreshing drink.


If you have read very many of my blogs you will know that when we travel Jim and I like to eat what the locals eat whether we know what it is or not. We ordered Café “Bombon” without knowing what it was (even after asking).


And we were quite pleased when it came.


It turned out to be sweetened condensed milk on the bottom. There was NO need to put in the additional sugar that came on the saucer.

Jim was also wanting a little sweet snack so we asked what there was for “postre” or dessert. Our waiter mentioned “membrillo” which we thought would be some sort of quince dessert. When he brought it, it was a package like a snack pudding. When Jim peeled back the foil lid, it had already been opened and a big bite taken out of it! We called the waiter over and pointed to the bite and said “mice.” He was embarrassed and looked like he knew exactly who the mouse might have been that took the bite out of this dessert which looked like apricot jello. He went away muttering and brought Jim a flan instead (which he would have preferred in the first place, had it been offered).

I was determined to try churros and chocolate for breakfast because that is what one does in Spain. I had read in Rick Steves' book about the best place to get fresh churros. It wasn't far from our hotel so we walked there in the morning but there wasn't a restaurant there by that name (this is what happens when you read the Rick Steves' book that is 10 years out of date). Disappointed, we went into the one restaurant which was open for breakfast and it was the exact place! The churro machine was churning out churros and people were eating them as fast as he could make them.

These were doughnut-like except not sweet. They were hot and amazingly greasy.

The hot chocolate was very thick and rich.

The proper way to eat them is to dip into the chocolate.

I had to try churros once but don't really need them again. Good, but way too greasy.

I must say that in spite of Madrid being the Tapas capital, I wasn't all that impressed. I can only eat so many pieces of bread with ham (even good Serrano ham) or bread with sardines or bread with .... Mind you, the bread is good but I would have killed for a green salad. We did have a nice surprise one evening after a tapas meal (the "ham of duck" tapas) in a Basque restaurant - we were served a "digestive" Basque liquor, that tasted of honey, anise and caramel. Yum!

We did finally eat some paella in the huge Plaza Major, the first place in Madrid where I finally felt we were in a really old part of town. The plaza was built in 1619 and was the sight of many gruesome Inquisition burnings.

The day we were here there was a huge demonstration by teachers about cuts in education.

The paella was disappointing but the crab was cute.

The second course was choice of lamb, beef or fish. I chose fish, in this case hake, and finally got my green salad.


The fish was truly delicious.

Next stop, the Royal Palace, cathedral and crypts, and Temple Debod.

Hasta luego,

Audrey