On our city bus tour we got off at The Retiro, which is a huge park that used to be the playground of royalty and is now open to all Madrilenos.
It’s a great place to walk around or just people watch. We stopped at a little outdoor café (frankly, this is a major past time in Madrid) for a sit-down and a refreshing drink.
If you have read very many of my blogs you will know that when we travel Jim and I like to eat what the locals eat whether we know what it is or not. We ordered Café “Bombon” without knowing what it was (even after asking).
And we were quite pleased when it came.
It turned out to be sweetened condensed milk on the bottom. There was NO need to put in the additional sugar that came on the saucer.
Jim was also wanting a little sweet snack so we asked what there was for “postre” or dessert. Our waiter mentioned “membrillo” which we thought would be some sort of quince dessert. When he brought it, it was a package like a snack pudding. When Jim peeled back the foil lid, it had already been opened and a big bite taken out of it! We called the waiter over and pointed to the bite and said “mice.” He was embarrassed and looked like he knew exactly who the mouse might have been that took the bite out of this dessert which looked like apricot jello. He went away muttering and brought Jim a flan instead (which he would have preferred in the first place, had it been offered).
I was determined to try churros and chocolate for breakfast because that is what one does in Spain. I had read in Rick Steves' book about the best place to get fresh churros. It wasn't far from our hotel so we walked there in the morning but there wasn't a restaurant there by that name (this is what happens when you read the Rick Steves' book that is 10 years out of date). Disappointed, we went into the one restaurant which was open for breakfast and it was the exact place! The churro machine was churning out churros and people were eating them as fast as he could make them.
These were doughnut-like except not sweet. They were hot and amazingly greasy.
The hot chocolate was very thick and rich.
The proper way to eat them is to dip into the chocolate.
I had to try churros once but don't really need them again. Good, but way too greasy.
I must say that in spite of Madrid being the Tapas capital, I wasn't all that impressed. I can only eat so many pieces of bread with ham (even good Serrano ham) or bread with sardines or bread with .... Mind you, the bread is good but I would have killed for a green salad. We did have a nice surprise one evening after a tapas meal (the "ham of duck" tapas) in a Basque restaurant - we were served a "digestive" Basque liquor, that tasted of honey, anise and caramel. Yum!
We did finally eat some paella in the huge Plaza Major, the first place in Madrid where I finally felt we were in a really old part of town. The plaza was built in 1619 and was the sight of many gruesome Inquisition burnings.
The day we were here there was a huge demonstration by teachers about cuts in education.
The paella was disappointing but the crab was cute.
The second course was choice of lamb, beef or fish. I chose fish, in this case hake, and finally got my green salad.
The fish was truly delicious.
Next stop, the Royal Palace, cathedral and crypts, and Temple Debod.
Hasta luego,
Audrey
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