Most people come to Barcelona specifically to view the fabulous Gaudi and other moderniste-style architecture.
The moderniste building style is seen everywhere in this city.
Even in these Gaudi-designed light fixtures.
Even before this influential architectural style Barcelona had a flair for beautifying buildings.
As long as I can remember I have wanted to see Gaudi's masterpiece, Sagrada Familia, which he worked on for 40 years until his death in 1926. It is now projected to be completed in 2026.
The first glimpse is truly breathtaking as you get a sense of the breadth and height of this massive cathedral. As we approached it, however, we saw hundreds and hundreds of people packing the sidewalks ringing the cathedral and realized they were in the ticket line. Time to reassess a visit.
If you have followed my blog very long you will know that I don't like crowds and I don't like waiting in line. I do like exploring what is different about each new place I visit, which is how I end up with photos like this one:
Yes! It's a urinal!
And I haven't seen any mention in any of the tourist stuff about this amazing Roy Lichtenstein sculpture at the water front.
It is called "The Face of Barcelona" and was an integral part of Barcelona's waterfront rebirth for the 1992 Olympic Games.
I do love modern art, and especially the work of artist Joan Miro. Like Picasso, Casals and Gaudi, Miro is another native son of Catalonia whose influence is everywhere in the city, including on the ground.
So of course I had to go to the Miro Foundation.
Uh oh.
I didn't realize there was a special retrospective which had just started the previous week. I had worked hard to get to the museum (several metro lines, walking and a taxi) and I really, really wanted to see the Miro stuff, so I did wait in line for about 40 minutes. (When I came out of the museum several hours later there was still a line)
Apparently every child in Barcelona from age 4-7 was also going to the museum that day. However, I persevered and I wasn't disappointed. The show had many paintings from the Guggenheim in NY, among others. Of course I could only photograph outside.
On the way to this museum I had spotted an interesting building which houses CaixaForum (by the way, with a Miro logo, same as on the Caixa bank below).
I had read somewhere that the CaixaForum, a sort of arts educational place, was doing a show on Diaghilev's Ballet Russe. This has been a passion of mine since college when I was deep into the art and music scene of Paris in the 1920s. So, I had to go.
The CaixaForum is in another building with Moderniste touches.
I was so excited when I saw the banner advertising my exhibit.
When I got inside I learned that it was FREE.
Translated from Catalan it means When Art Dances With Music. This was an absolutely amazing exhibit with original ballet posters from the early 1900s, programs, Diaghilev's hotel bill for his suite at a Venice hotel, original scores of music, original costumes from many, many early ballets, original paintings of set designs, original photos of the dancers in their roles, etc. Collaborations of artists such as Picasso, Chanel, Miro, Bakst, Stravinsky, Satie, Cocteau, de Falla, Nijinsky, Massine....Many things were on loan from private collections and from the Victoria and Albert Museum in London. I almost swooned when I realized I was within inches of touching the actual costumes from the Rite of Spring, that famous ballet which premiered in Paris in 1913 and caused a riot.
What I hadn't known before this exhibit was that the Ballet Russe had a close relationship with Spain through many performances both in Madrid and here in Barcelona, just a few blocks from where we are staying, at the Teatro Liceo.
I was so amazed by the educational component of this exhibit. Not only is there the visual part of it, which runs through January, but also lectures, concerts, films, discussion groups and family activities. All free. And, this was only one of several exhibits going on at the Forum. If I lived in this city I would certainly come here over and over.
While I was hyperventilating over the Ballet Russe, Jim was having a different sort of day. He explored the fabulous mask shop on our street
and went to the huge park at the end of the street, which houses a lake, the zoo, the science museum, the geology museum, this dragon fountain AND the parliament of Catalonia.
Oh, and a Woolly Mammoth!
I am sad that we have to leave this beautiful city tomorrow as we are heading to Palma de Majorca for a few days before we board our cruise ship.
I am not sorry to have missed the crowds at the Gaudi icons and have thoroughly enjoyed the alternate road I took.
Adios,
Audrey
