SOUTH PACIFIC CRUISE: RANGIROA AND DOLPHINS

After Moorea we had a relatively long (12 hour) passage to our next destination, Rangiroa, a string of coral atoll islands in the shape of a pearl necklace.  On our approach, the Captain announced that we would have to "run the rapids" to get into the lagoon where we would anchor. 

Entrance to the Lagoon

The captain wasn't kidding - it was a wild ride.

Once we tendered ashore I could see this was going to be one of my favorite islands.  The pier had no tourist junk at all and nothing but two open-air cafes, one on either side of the one road.

Pier at Avatoru, Rangiroa

We started walking along the gravel road.  Here is a typical house on this island.

House on Rangiroa

There wasn't a whole lot to see along the road, except gorgeous tropical flowers...

Plumeria (Frangipani)

Giggling girls...

and palm trees.

After about 15 minutes we had reached the other side of the island and were back where our ship ran the rapids - the Blue Lagoon.

 

What a gorgeous spot!  White coral beach, turquoise water, frigate birds and DOLPHINS.

Frigate Bird at the Blue Lagoon

 This dolphin family loved to surf!  We watched them for over a half hour and I was so, so happy to remember I had a video feature on my camera!  Totally made my day.

Right near this beach was a big sign about the dolphins (in French and English) in an effort to protect them from meddling humans.

 After all this excitement, and sitting in the brilliant sun for too long, we headed back down the road to the village.  We chose the open air restaurant which had seating right above the water.  Several other diners were throwing french fries in the water so we got a really good look at the amazing amount and variety of fish in the clear blue water.  We even saw several Sting Rays but I wasn't fast enough to capture them in a photo.

There were so many different kinds I can't even begin to identify them all.

Butterfly and other fish

Someone said these were reef sharks, but I don't see a dorsal fin.  They were big.

We had a fabulous (fish) lunch and Jim went back to the ship while I enjoyed swimming in the amazing water.  I wanted to stay in the water all afternoon but the tropical sun and my skin don't get along so well so I had to bid this peaceful and lovely place adieu.

Leaving the Lagoon

To me Rangiroa will always be a magical place because of the dolphins.  I know I will be back here one day.

Next, Nuku Hiva in the Marquesas.

Audrey

SOUTH PACIFIC CRUISE: MOOREA

Statendam anchored at Moorea

Moorea is known as "The Magical Island" but actually means "Yellow Lizard" in Tahitian.  It is what one thinks of when one imagines an exotic South Pacific Island.  The ancient volcano has eroded into a heart shaped island of jagged peaks covered in lush greenery and surrounded by turquoise bays.  It is quite rural in feeling (a relief after bustling Papeete) with no large harbor.  Our ship anchored and we tendered to a dock about a mile from town.

 I wanted to mail some postcards so my objective was the post office, which was in town, a hot and muggy mile walk.  As we were debating how to get there a nice lady offered to drive us to her brother's pearl store which was near town.  She said if we bought something in the store she would take us on to town for free, otherwise it would be $5.  I figured that was better than walking  in the heat.  The store wasn't large but is a well known and respected pearl outlet called Ron Hall Tahitian Pearls.  This You Tube video gives you a great feel for this fun little shop and their beautiful black pearls.  We were not in the market for pearls but Jim found a great Tiki T-shirt so we got our "free" ride anyway.  This shell was on display in the store.  It is typical of shells in the South Pacific and I found it quite exotic looking.


In the little town we were standing on the side of the road trying to decide which restaurant to go to for coffee when a beater car stopped next to us and a blonde American looking woman leaned out to ask if we needed help finding something.  We got talking.  She was from Eureka, California.  She told us, "I came here for 10 days 27 years ago and haven't left."  She looked very happy, as did the Tahitian man grinning next to her.

We found our restaurant and settled down to watch to world go by.  First we saw this wonderful bird in the tree which I believe is a red-vented bulbul.  Apparently these are native to India and were first introduced to Fiji in the early 1900s by indentured Indian workers. 

 Then we were lucky also to see (and hear) this great looking (loud) mynah bird.

Our village had a local feel to it rather than a tourist feel.  There were lots of little handicraft shops and art galleries, in addition to the post office, which was closed.  We saw very few people from our ship there and the store owners assumed we were visiting from the nearby resort.  We found some real bargains - I got a pair of shell earrings for 500F (roughly $5) and saw the exact same earrings for sale at the pier for 2,500F! 

Moorea is a laid back, beautiful island with a population of only 16,000.  Even though it is a popular tourist destination, it certainly doesn't feel over run with visitors. It is close enough to Tahiti for commuting and weekend getaways but miles away in energy.

Bora Bora in the distance

Hilton Moorea Lagoon Resort and Spa

Once again we were treated to a spectacular South Pacific sunset as we sailed away.

Moorea was our favorite South Pacific island thus far:  a good artistic vibe, a slow pace and really, really nice people.

Next, Rangiroa and dolphins!

Audrey

SOUTH PACIFIC CRUISE: PAPEETE, TAHITI AND FRENCH LABOR DAY

Who knew that May 1st is French Labor Day and a National Holiday?  I am betting that both our travel agent and Holland America Line knew but it was a surprise to all of us until we arrived in Papeete, Tahiti and found nearly everything closed. 

All of my life the word Tahiti conjured up the ultimate in tropical paradise - azure waters, palm trees, gorgeous natives with flowers tucked behind ears; exotic and foreign.  There we were in downtown Papeete and it seemed like we could have been in any other semi-seedy South of France beach location.  Granted my impressions were tainted by not being able to do the usual tourist things, like shop in the fabulous farmer's market...

Marche Municipale (through the closed gate)

or do more than window shop to see what was new and different at this port. 

Polynesian-themed dishes

Or talk to locals and learn a little more about their culture. 



Had we known ahead of time that this was a major holiday, we could have planned to do a shore excursion on this day.  But we didn't. 




Instead, we walked around and did see some really interesting things like this lovely tile work depicting many kinds and colors of fish.

And of course the lovely tropical vegetation - things we have at home as house plants.

I was intrigued by these flags, which would indicate that Tahitians have some sort of rights within the European Union.  A quick look at Wikipedia on this topic shows that the loose connection probably doesn't affect the average Tahitian.  For further information on this click here.

After a bit of traipsing around (and seeing lots of "street people" in various states of inebriation) we did find one cafe open and sat down for a cafe latte and croissant (this is France, after all). 

Jim with Statendam in background

Really, the only other places open were the vendors in the covered square right where our ship docked.  This area opened onto a really nice plaza between the cruise ship dock and the inter-island ferry dock.  It had a sort of colonial-old-world feel to it and was a great place to people and bird watch.

Later we saw the sun set behind this gazebo and watched food truck after food truck come in and set up on the plaza.

Food vendors setting up on plaza

We later learned that it is a really big deal when the cruise ships are in - maybe not so much for the passengers but certainly for the crew who party into the wee hours with the food trucks, live music and dancing. 

Plaza and Statendam

Setting up portable tables

And, once again, another reminder that we are in French territory.

All in all, a disappointing first trip to Papeete, Tahiti.  Somehow, though, I feel I will be back (but not on May Day).

Next, beautiful Moorea, The Magical Island.

Audrey

SOUTH PACIFIC CRUISE: RAIATEA, SOCIETY ISLANDS, FRENCH POLYNESIA

Raiatea turned out to be one of our favorite places in French Polynesia.  It is a deep water port with a lush mountainous backdrop.  One of these mountains is Mt. Temehani which thousands of years ago had a similar status to Mt. Olympus.  Raiatea is considered even today the spiritual center of Polynesia.  The island's name translates to "far-away heaven."

Typical scenery

We stepped off the ship right in the heart of downtown Uturoa, with many palapa craft markets and an indoor fruit and vegetable market which also served crepes and Nutella, a reminder that this is FRENCH Polynesia.

Craft market right at ship-side

Crepes

Taro root

One of the real niceties of French Polynesia is these floral-wrapped posts.  We saw them everywhere. Of course being in the tropics these "exotic" flowers are ubiquitous.  I never got tired of seeing them.

 In the middle of town was a square where local performers were dancing, surrounded by tourists from the ship.  The really fun part was that they roped in the observers. 

 
This one guy from the ship was "chosen" and was stripped of his shirt and wrapped in native garb.  He was a really good sport about it and got into the spirit!

 And there was much booty shaking!

In Uturoa I got to indulge in one of my favorite things to do when traveling - shop in the local grocery store.  I love seeing all the different and odd things and I was not disappointed.

White sandwich bread

Rabbit pate, anyone?

Not on my menu anytime soon

I was very pleased with my purchases - Maille mustard (cheaper than a trip to Dijon, France), a tube of harissa from Tunsia (at home we can only find this at Whole Foods, which doesn't exist in my county) and a bag of shrimp chips, "enjoyed by Japanese for 40 years!"

I also found a wonderful variety store where locals shop - everything from hardware to fabric.  At this fabulous place I bought soap made with the local gardenia, "Tiare Apetahi" which grows on Mt. Temehani and nowhere else in the world. 

Our impressions of Raiatea:  a very pleasant, civilized place; everyone speaks French and looks happy.

Sailing to Taha'a

As we sailed away from Raiatea our captain took us on a lengthy scenic tour of the sister island Taha'a, known as "The Vanilla Island."  Millennia ago the two were one island and still share a common reef.   

Inside the reef

Picnic, anyone?

Taha'a is sparsely populated and we were easily able to see the locals waving to us on shore as we sailed by.  We also had three guys speed by in a boat and as they passed us one guy held up a huge fish.  We all cheered.

Beautiful Taha'a Island

 

Sailing past Taha'a

 As we sailed into the sunset we were treated to a view of Bora Bora in the distance behind Taha'a Island.

Bora Bora in distance

Another gorgeous South Seas sunset.

Our final look at Taha'a

Lovely day, magical islands.  Next up, Papeete, Tahiti, and disappointment.

Audrey