SOUTH PACIFIC CRUISE: ALL THOSE DAYS AT SEA

A question I get asked a lot is "aren't you bored with all those days at sea?"  My answer is always NO!  I personally wouldn't get tired of just reading and staring at the sea but on this cruise there was so much more to keep one amused. 

For example, every evening when we arrived back in our cabin after dinner, the burning question was, "what animal will it be tonight?" (or sometimes, "what is that?")  On a 35 night cruise our room steward had to have many animals up his sleeve!

Seahorse?

Orangutan

 Also after dinner we got the program for the next day.  It was fun to see what new and different activities the cruise director came up with.  I was especially excited when they announced a special "James Bond Martini" event on one of the formal nights.  I was so sure the lounge would be playing vintage Bond theme music while the glamorously dressed sipped martinis, shaken, not stirred.


 Alas, it was the same old tired piano bar music. 
But, at least the drinks were good.

My days at sea fell into a routine.  After breakfast in our room I would try to get in a mile or more on the promenade deck (4 times around) before it got too hot.  Then I would attend a cooking class or go to a lecture (we had a great speaker on Quantum Mechanics) or an art auction.  If none of those things were happening, I could also spend a little time at the penny slot machines.  Later in the day I would head up to the swimming pools for some laps followed by the hot tub.

Outdoor pool, Deck 10

Of course food played an important part in the day.  As we had the late seating for dinner (8 pm) I fell into the habit of skipping lunch and going to High Tea every day at 3 pm.  This was an amazingly civilized event.  After choosing what tea you want to drink, the server first brings around the tray of little sandwiches.  There were usually 4 or 5 different ones to choose from and they varied throughout the week.  This was one of my favorites - sun dried tomato, avocado, chive and cream cheese.   Another favorite was a slice of roasted portobello mushroom with dried cranberries on top served on pumpernickel.

Tea sandwich with sun dried tomato

Tea sandwich with prosciutto and arugula

Next was the goodies tray.  Again, 4-5 choices.  Usually always a sponge cake/jelly roll type of thing, a cookie type of thing, a tartlet and a cake. This was my all-time favorite - blackberry with custard below.

Coconut and chocolate

Last but certainly not least was the tray of scones.  These were nearly always hot.  There were plain and raisin and they were served with gray boats full of orange marmalade, strawberry jam and whipped cream.  Oh my.



In the evenings, besides the fabulous dinners, there were shows and sometimes movies.  One of the shows I really enjoyed was "Bob Mackie's Broadway."  For those of you who don't know Bob Mackie, he is famous for his over-the-top costumes for celebrities such as Cher, RuPaul, Bette Midler, Diana Ross, Tina Turner, etc.  The costumes in this show did not disappoint.  Lots of satin and bling.  The singing and dancing weren't bad either.  We didn't go to the shows every night.  Sometimes it was nice to just go out on deck and enjoy the stars of the Southern Hemisphere.

One formal night, groaning from dinner, we went to the late night Dessert Buffet which took over the whole pool deck.  It was amazingly elaborate with a chocolate fountain, a Komodo dragon carved from chocolate, hundreds of cakes, pastries, breads, sweet rolls, fruit, etc.  The pastry chefs paraded around to thunderous applause.  We were still so stuffed  that we didn't eat a thing.

Watermelon "cameo"

Swan Cake

Fancy cakes and pastries

When all the food, noise, activity and fuss became too much, it was nice to retire to our room, turn on some music, put on the bathrobe and read.

 Next landfall - Raiatea, Fremch Polynesia.

Audrey

SOUTH PACIFIC CRUISE: BORA BORA, ENTRANCE TO FRENCH POLYNESIA

Our captain told us that the approach to Bora Bora is quite beautiful as its volcanic peaks stick up well above sea level.  We were due to arrive in the early evening so Jim and I hightailed it to the Crow's Nest bar, which is situated in the bow on deck 12 and has great forward views.  This was our first sighting of Bora Bora, meaning "First Born," shortly before sunset.

French Polynesia!  I had to pinch myself to see if I were really here.

 We were rewarded with one of the best sunsets on the whole cruise that night.

In the morning Jim and I met Theda, our new friend, and we set out for Bloody Mary's.  She was determined to get a T-shirt there and we didn't have anything else planned.  Here we are waiting to get on our $5 "shuttle" to the restaurant.   These shuttles were run by entrepreneurial locals who had any sort of vehicle which could take several passengers.  Our ride out to Bloody Mary's was in a small van and the return was in the back of a Land Rover with plank bench seats.

Outside the craft shops in Vaiatape

This was the stunning view across the road from Bloody Mary's.  Gorgeous, but hot (85F) and sticky (85% humidity).

Jim and Theda at Bloody Mary's

 Bloody Mary's is a restaurant and bar which tons of famous people go to and get their names on the board out front.  I figured we were in good company with Racquel Welch.

 


 It's set up as a tiki bar with fun carvings, a palapa roof and sand floor.  The seats are up-ended logs, not too comfortable!

seen in the Ladies Room

Inside Bloody Mary's

 

 Besides having a good signature drink, the food was amazing!

Seared Ahi

 While we were there an incredible deafening deluge began.  By the time we were ready to leave the rain had stopped.

After the downpour it was back to beautiful...

 and lush tropical paradise.

Bora Bora is an interesting mix of rustic (dirt roads) and expensive (these Four Season's palapa rooms reportedly cost $1,000 a night!)

















Our sail away -
another romantic South Seas evening.

Next, on-board amusements

Audrey

SOUTH PACIFIC CRUISE: FANNING ISLAND

So who has ever heard of Fanning Island?  No one we talked to on the cruise ship ever had. Discovered by and named for American sea captain Edmund Fanning in 1798 this coral atoll had no native population and remained uninhabited until about 1855.  Renamed Tabuaeran or "heavenly footprint," the atoll, like its sister Line Islands, is characterized by its ring shape and interior lagoon.  The highest place on the atoll is 3 feet above sea level!  Made me wonder about tsunamis....





Three lovely sea days south and west of Hawaii we arrived at Fanning Island, just 3 degrees north of the equator.  We crossed the International Dateline 3 times; on board ship it was Saturday but on shore it was Sunday!

I was out on the Promenade Deck for an early morning walk, watching our approach, and sighted a pair of dolphins which had come out to greet our ship.  That may sound anthropomorphic but what else could I conclude?  They came from the mouth of the lagoon toward the starboard side of our ship, hung around for a moment of two, arcing out of the water, then went back to the lagoon.  I think they were just curious.  Regrettably I did not get a photo of them.

Fanning is one of 32 coral atolls belonging to the Republic of Kiribati, reputed to be the poorest country in the world.  This was certainly evident as there is no electricity or indoor plumbing.  The only local foods are coconuts, pigs and seafood. I have no idea how or where they get their drinking water.

First view of the village

Catholic Church and Seaweed Plantation

There is no harbor at Fanning and our ship couldn't anchor because it is too deep, so the whole time we were there the ship idled in place while these tenders ferried us back and forth to the shore, about a 20 minute trip in rough water.

Tender being lowered

Very few ships come to Fanning so the arrival of ours was a big deal with craft vendors out in full force (on folding tables in the grass).  We were greeted by musicians, dancers and these guys posing for photos.  Any donations went to support their school.  Their costumes were made of burlap and couldn't have been comfortable in that stifling heat and humidity. 

Posing for $1 

Unfortunately these lovely dancers were doing their moves to horrible disco-type western music blaring from loudspeakers (and with no electricity, who knows, were the speakers hooked up to car batteries?)

This is what the village and housing looked like.   I felt like I dropped into a Margaret Mead story.

 Given that the locals have nothing except the sea and coconuts, I was incredibly impressed by the creative use of shark bones and fish vertebrae, not to mention the recycling of boxes from Costco!  Each box was very carefully re-sized to fit its knife and then SEWN back together with fishing line.  I wanted to get a photo of the artist but these Gilbertese folks are very shy.

Shark bone and fish vertebrae knives

Craft tables and entertainers

One of the few "industries" on Fanning is the selling of postage stamps.  We were told to expect a 4-6 month delivery time. 

Post Office

 One of their other industries is the packaging and selling of seaweed.  Back in the day (1902) Fanning was a happening place with commerce and electricity.  This was due to the laying of the Trans-Pacific cable between Canada and Australia. The cable station was destroyed in WWI.

Really, the only sensible thing to do in a climate like this is get into the water.  The coral made the beach really beautiful white and of course the water was a very pleasant temperature.

The lagoon

Dead coral on beach

It was so interesting coming to a place which has so little material wealth and so much beauty.  As a first world person it is impossible not to wonder, "could I survive here" with only pigs, dogs, flies, seafood and coconuts and 2,000 of my closest relatives?

Girl at water's edge

Next, Bora Bora.

Audrey

SOUTH PACIFIC CRUISE: OAHU'S HIDDEN WONDERS

On Day 9 of our cruise we were on our last Hawaiian Island, Oahu.  We were so lucky to be able to meet up with another friend for our day there.  Dan is a retired Marine, and fellow Seattle-lite, whom I hired back during our working days at the VA.   He has since retired again, moved to Hawaii, and is loving every minute of it.

Me and Dan at Punchbowl National Cemetery

He was a fabulous tour guide showing us things we never would have seen otherwise.  Our first stop was The National Memorial Cemetery of the Pacific, commonly called "Punchbowl,"  where local Marines were rehearsing for Anzac Day to commemorate Australian military casualties in the Gallipoli Campaign of WWI.

Beautiful view looking back to Honolulu

Punchbowl is so named due to the volcanic crater in which it is situated.  It is a serene and solemn place steeped in history.  Learn more about it here.

Atrium describing WWII battles in the Pacific...

all done in mosaic

The Chapel

Dan lives far from the craziness of Honolulu in a lovely spot near Bellows Airforce Base.  These are the islands to which he frequently kayaks and then snorkels to catch his dinner.  Tough job, but someone has to do it!

Dan and his islands

He toured us all over the island, going from one fabulous lookout or beach to the next.  This colorful Hawaiian Cardinal was seen at various spots.

Red Crested Cardinal

Dan and Jim at Nu'uanu Pali

Fun to watch the waves break through the arch!

Truly paradise!

As a grand finale to a fabulous day out, Dan took us to Romy's food truck for garlic prawns.  They have their own shrimp farms here and the prawns were very fresh and absolutely full of garlic.  YUM.

Jim and I returned the the ship feeling kind of smug - we had the million dollar tour with our own personal guide and no crowds or herding!  It was so great to see our friend Dan happy and thriving in his own tropical paradise.

Next stop, Fanning Island.

Audrey