Sunday, June 14, 2015

SOUTH PACIFIC CRUISE: PAPEETE, TAHITI AND FRENCH LABOR DAY

Who knew that May 1st is French Labor Day and a National Holiday?  I am betting that both our travel agent and Holland America Line knew but it was a surprise to all of us until we arrived in Papeete, Tahiti and found nearly everything closed. 

All of my life the word Tahiti conjured up the ultimate in tropical paradise - azure waters, palm trees, gorgeous natives with flowers tucked behind ears; exotic and foreign.  There we were in downtown Papeete and it seemed like we could have been in any other semi-seedy South of France beach location.  Granted my impressions were tainted by not being able to do the usual tourist things, like shop in the fabulous farmer's market...

Marche Municipale (through the closed gate)
or do more than window shop to see what was new and different at this port. 
Polynesian-themed dishes


Or talk to locals and learn a little more about their culture. 



Had we known ahead of time that this was a major holiday, we could have planned to do a shore excursion on this day.  But we didn't. 




Instead, we walked around and did see some really interesting things like this lovely tile work depicting many kinds and colors of fish.




And of course the lovely tropical vegetation - things we have at home as house plants.

I was intrigued by these flags, which would indicate that Tahitians have some sort of rights within the European Union.  A quick look at Wikipedia on this topic shows that the loose connection probably doesn't affect the average Tahitian.  For further information on this click here.

After a bit of traipsing around (and seeing lots of "street people" in various states of inebriation) we did find one cafe open and sat down for a cafe latte and croissant (this is France, after all). 
Jim with Statendam in background
Really, the only other places open were the vendors in the covered square right where our ship docked.  This area opened onto a really nice plaza between the cruise ship dock and the inter-island ferry dock.  It had a sort of colonial-old-world feel to it and was a great place to people and bird watch.

Later we saw the sun set behind this gazebo and watched food truck after food truck come in and set up on the plaza.

Food vendors setting up on plaza




We later learned that it is a really big deal when the cruise ships are in - maybe not so much for the passengers but certainly for the crew who party into the wee hours with the food trucks, live music and dancing. 
Plaza and Statendam
Setting up portable tables
And, once again, another reminder that we are in French territory.

All in all, a disappointing first trip to Papeete, Tahiti.  Somehow, though, I feel I will be back (but not on May Day).

Next, beautiful Moorea, The Magical Island.

Audrey

Friday, June 5, 2015

SOUTH PACIFIC CRUISE: RAIATEA, SOCIETY ISLANDS, FRENCH POLYNESIA




Raiatea turned out to be one of our favorite places in French Polynesia.  It is a deep water port with a lush mountainous backdrop.  One of these mountains is Mt. Temehani which thousands of years ago had a similar status to Mt. Olympus.  Raiatea is considered even today the spiritual center of Polynesia.  The island's name translates to "far-away heaven."

Typical scenery
We stepped off the ship right in the heart of downtown Uturoa, with many palapa craft markets and an indoor fruit and vegetable market which also served crepes and Nutella, a reminder that this is FRENCH Polynesia.
Craft market right at ship-side

Crepes




Taro root
One of the real niceties of French Polynesia is these floral-wrapped posts.  We saw them everywhere. Of course being in the tropics these "exotic" flowers are ubiquitous.  I never got tired of seeing them.

 In the middle of town was a square where local performers were dancing, surrounded by tourists from the ship.  The really fun part was that they roped in the observers. 

 
This one guy from the ship was "chosen" and was stripped of his shirt and wrapped in native garb.  He was a really good sport about it and got into the spirit!


 And there was much booty shaking!


In Uturoa I got to indulge in one of my favorite things to do when traveling - shop in the local grocery store.  I love seeing all the different and odd things and I was not disappointed.

White sandwich bread
Rabbit pate, anyone?
Not on my menu anytime soon
I was very pleased with my purchases - Maille mustard (cheaper than a trip to Dijon, France), a tube of harissa from Tunsia (at home we can only find this at Whole Foods, which doesn't exist in my county) and a bag of shrimp chips, "enjoyed by Japanese for 40 years!"

I also found a wonderful variety store where locals shop - everything from hardware to fabric.  At this fabulous place I bought soap made with the local gardenia, "Tiare Apetahi" which grows on Mt. Temehani and nowhere else in the world. 

Our impressions of Raiatea:  a very pleasant, civilized place; everyone speaks French and looks happy.


Sailing to Taha'a







As we sailed away from Raiatea our captain took us on a lengthy scenic tour of the sister island Taha'a, known as "The Vanilla Island."  Millennia ago the two were one island and still share a common reef.   



Inside the reef

Picnic, anyone?



Taha'a is sparsely populated and we were easily able to see the locals waving to us on shore as we sailed by.  We also had three guys speed by in a boat and as they passed us one guy held up a huge fish.  We all cheered.
Beautiful Taha'a Island
 


Sailing past Taha'a
 As we sailed into the sunset we were treated to a view of Bora Bora in the distance behind Taha'a Island.
Bora Bora in distance














Another gorgeous South Seas sunset.
Our final look at Taha'a

Lovely day, magical islands.  Next up, Papeete, Tahiti, and disappointment.

Audrey