No amount of description could have prepared me for New Years Eve in Cuenca. Last year we stayed inside and saw lots of fire balloons from the balcony. If you want to know more about these fire balloons check out www.overflite.com. This year we went out on the streets to experience New Years Eve like the Cuencans do. All I can say is "wow." Everywhere you looked there were fires burning (the effigies of the old year).
Hordes of people were on the streets, and this was very much a family affair. Families had their dummies set up in a scenario in front of their home. The family would be gathered around laughing and talking until it was time to burn their creation at midnight.
During all of this there were more hordes of people "cruising" in their cars. Often the cars themselves would have effigies roped onto them and/or the passengers of the cars would be disguised in grotesque masks representing the old year.
These cars were not allowed to just drive down the streets - every so often there would be a "checkpoint" where men or boys would be dressed up as women (always with large breasts) and impede the traffic either with a rope across the street or by dancing flirtatiously in the middle of the street. The cars are allowed through only after they make a small donation to the drag queen - 5 to 25 cents. Around the edges of these intersections were lots of families watching and laughing (and taking pictures and videos). Everyone was having a great time.
This guy was an outrageous flirt and a good dancer. Please check out Nancy's blog for some really great pictures of him. http://www.watsontravels.blogspot.com/
Besides these more impromptu celebrations, there were whole neighborhood events that had very elaborate scenarios, often representing political people. This one seemed to be the Ecuadorian congress. Maybe that's Bush up high on the banner with the eagle wings?
This one had lots of devils and a priest with devil horns. Certainly some sort of commentary on religion.
A huge dog head, who knows?
It's hard to capture the feeling on the streets - lots of people out who seemed to truly be shrugging off the old year in a very ritualistic way. In no way did it feel unsafe or scary (except for the big booms of the fireworks and the unexpected firecrackers). The whole city had a festive feel.
Our favorite venue was a huge display (very well done) of Bush getting a shoe tossed at him by the reporter in Iraq. This was the display we chose to watch burning at midnight. Also, it was nearly in our old neighborhood from last year so it felt like our personal celebration. Here's the whole venue (mind you, this is in the middle of the street, which is completely blocked off)
Here's a close up of Bush. We thought this was pretty creative and accurate.
I also especially loved this rendition of the Secret Service guy
At about 11:45 PM, the street in front of this venue was filled with neighbors dancing to really loud Merengue. There was a live announcer (maybe this was also broadcast on radio?) and very happy guys passing out little cups of 180+ proof something (tasted and burned like I imagine moonshine would). Notice, people even had their dogs there (and I saw two poodles earlier that evening - surely a good omen for the new year).
Now it's midnight and the effigies are being readied for burning.
Once lit, the loudspeaker played a song talking about the old year.
What struck me the most was that everyone turned to their neighbor and hugged them once the fire was lit. We were not left out of this practice and had many lovely folks hugging us, shaking our hands and wishing us Prospero Ano Nuevo, both in Spanish and English. I had a nearly toothless old woman kiss me on the check.
What a lovely tradition! It was one of those moments when you absolutely knew that you are connected to the rest of humanity. An excellent way to start the New Year!
May you, too, have a truly special start to your 2009.
Best wishes from Cuenca, Ecuador.
Audrey
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